Irrespective of how dangerous New York really is - and it is considerably safer than it was, say, a decade ago - it can sometimes feel dangerous. Perhaps more than in any other city in the world, a sense of nervy self-preservation is rife here: people make studied efforts to avoid eye contact, and any unusual behavior clears a space immediately: the atmosphere of impending violence is sometimes sniffable.
The reality is somewhat different. There is a great deal of crime in New York, some of it violent. But keep in mind that more than eight million people live in the city, and, as far as per capita crime rates go, Boston is more dangerous, as are New Orleans, Dallas, Washington DC, and, believe it or not, one hundred and some odd other US cities. Even considering New York on its own, it's pleasing (and not misleading) to note that in 1997 the city boasted its lowest crime rate - violent crimes included - since 1968. And it's still on its way down. This is due in part to periodic gun amnesties and increased gun confiscation: anyone taken into custody for even the most petty crime can be searched for weapons, so the police have simply started cracking down on the minor offenses, like shoplifting, even public urination, which they used to overlook. A less inspiring contributing factor is the shift in focus of the criminal drug culture; where crack, a stimulant that inspired violence in its addicts, once ruled, heroin, a depressant that causes sluggishness more than anything, is now much more prevalent.
New York's tension doesn't automatically mean violence; it's largely due to the frenetic pace at which most of the city operates. Take several million people, pump them full of caffeine, make them believe that they have to get where they're going five minutes faster than is actually humanly possible, and pack them onto a tiny island - there's bound to be an edge in the air. Which is not to say you should discount the possibility of danger altogether. Do as the locals do and keep it in the back of your consciousness, not at the forefront. As with any big city, the main thing is to walk with confidence and remember the few places and/or times that you really should avoid. Throughout The Rough Guide, we've outlined places where you should be careful and those few best skirted altogether, but really it's a case of using your common sense; it doesn't take long to figure out that you're somewhere unsavory.
The hard and fast rule that will best enable you to travel around New York safely and confidently is simple to remember: be aware of your surroundings at all times. Contrary to the warnings of the folks back home, it's OK to let on you're a visitor - if you follow rules of paranoia and never look up, you'll miss a lot of what's striking about New York. Looking up and around, reading this guidebook, and pulling out your camera can make you more of a target, but only because the assumption is that tourists are careless. You are much more likely to have your pocket picked while you're looking at your map than you are to encounter something more violent. So carry bags closed and across your body, don't let cameras dangle, keep wallets in front - not back - pockets, and don't flash money or your Oyster Rolex around. Avoid crowds, especially around rip-off merchants like street gamblers, where half the con is played on the participants and the other half on the spectators. Never be afraid to move away if you feel someone is standing too close to you.
It is, of course, the murders that make the headlines: reassure yourself that ninety percent of victims are known to their killers, which is to say most killings are personal disputes rather than random attacks. Mugging, on the other hand, can and does happen. It's impossible to give hard and fast rules on what to do should you meet up with a mugger: whether to run or scream or fight depends on you and the situation. Most New Yorkers would hand over the money every time, and that's probably what you should do - in fact, some people always carry a spare $20 or so as "mug money," lest their attacker turn nasty at finding empty pockets. Having a spare $20 should be your common practice anyway; if you find yourself somewhere you'd rather not be, you want to be able to jump in a cab.
Of course the best tactic is to avoid being mugged, and following the "awareness" rules outlined above is a good start. Some good late-night points are worth adding to that: even if you are terrified, or drunk (or both), don't appear so; never walk down a dark side street, especially one you can't see the end of, or through a deserted park; walk in the street itself, stick to the roadside edge of the sidewalk or where it's easier for you to run into the road if necessary and attract the attention that muggers hate.
If the worst happens and your assailant is toting a gun or (more likely) a knife, play it calmly. Remember that he (for this is generally a male pursuit) is probably almost as scared as you and just as jumpy; keep still, don't make any sudden movements - and do what he says. When he has run off, hail a cab and ask to be taken to the nearest police station: taxis rarely charge for this, but if they do the police are supposed to pay. Standing around on the street in a shocked condition is inviting more trouble, though you'd be pleasantly surprised at the number of people who would sincerely come to your aid. At the station, you'll get sympathy and little else; file the theft and take the reference to claim your insurance back home.