ContinuedAfter seeing Paris underground, the next logical step is to see the city from on high. There can be long lines for the Eiffel Tower, but you can easily avoid them by visiting mid-week in the late afternoon (we started our ascent around 4 pm with no lines at all). It’s a popular tourist draw, but for good reason-the 360 degree views really are spectacular. After your ascent, stop at Le Bistrot due 7äme a few blocks away (56 Blvd. de Latour-Mauberg) for an inexpensive but delicious meal. As in many Parisian restaurants this one offers several prix fixe options, with the two-course offering a bargain at only 75F. Skip the appetizer and go for a main dish (such as poached salmon or trout meuniäre) and dessert, as the desserts, like the Charlotte Chocolat Noir, are heavenly. This neighborhood, the heart of the 7th arrondissement, is filled with lovely winding streets, gracious beaux-art homes covered with wrought iron balconies, and chic boutiques, perfect for a few hours stroll.
The views from the top of Notre Dame easily rival those from the Tower. You may not be as high up but you get a better panorama of the city, and the up-close viewpoint brings the beauty of Paris’ architecture (and rooftop gardens) into better focus. The 373 steps up to the top of the cathedral are quite a workout, though, and should not be attempted lightly. On the Left bank, a stone’s throw from Notre Dame, we had the best food of our stay. The charming Les Bouchons de Francois Clerc is tucked out of the way on Rue de l’Hotel-Colbert (#12, about a block from the Seine). I started with excellent crepinettes de langoustines, followed by a tender leg of pork braised in brandy. My husband ordered Charlotte des Tomates, (sun-dried tomatoes over ricotta and artichoke hearts) and a main course of tuna steak over an artichoke puree. (Craig lives for artichokes) This delicious meal was accompanied by a fine bottle of wine from their well stocked cellar. The two-course prix fixe meal cost 117 F per person (about $20 each), not including the wine.